06:10
The fish market
Manolo picks the sardines at the auction. If the sea didn't deliver, there's no espeto. It's that simple.

The embers · since 1979
Manolo has been skewering sardines for 45 years in the same beached boat on the seafront promenade. This is what happens every day.
The day
06:10
Manolo picks the sardines at the auction. If the sea didn't deliver, there's no espeto. It's that simple.
12:30
The olive wood is lit in the beached boat. The first skewers go out with the smoke still rising.
14:00
Six sardines per skewer, coarse salt, fifteen minutes over the embers. You eat them with your fingers, looking at the water.
20:30
The last embers coincide with the last light. Anyone who's seen it once comes back.
The team
The espetero (skewer master) · founder
45 years over the embers. He says the secret is the olive wood; everyone knows it's him.
Second grill · his son
He learned to skewer before he learned to ride a bike. He has handled the fish market since 2019.
Floor and draft beers
She knows who wants a second beer before they ask.

«If the sea didn't deliver, there's no espeto. And that's fine — come back tomorrow.»
Manolo Heredia · espetero
the seafront promenade · front row · olive wood since 1979.